Chiswick and Hogarth 28 August 2026
Walk Through Chiswick and a stroll with William Hogarth.
On 28th August, Ken Smith led a group of members on a short but informative walk around the Chiswick area of London.
Starting out from Turnham Green tube station, the group’s first stop was Chiswick High Road.
Pausing in front of a modern statue of William Hogarth and his dog. Ken explained that Hogarth would be a constant companion on this walk. Lyn West quickly spotted the plaque adjacent to the statue naming the dog as “Trump”!
Ken explained that this road was, and to some extent still is, one of the main routes west out of London. It was a Roman route, a medieval highway and a turnpike during the eighteenth century. So there always was a constant stream of traffic, carriers, drovers, wagons and coaches. Of course, everything on that road needed feeding, watering and stabling. Two thousand years of traffic on one alignment.
Ken continued, saying that any inn on a route of this kind would have been a substantial business rather than a drinking house. Stabling, a yard large enough to turn a vehicle, food, beds and the changing of horses were the trade, and drink was part of it rather than the whole.
The group paused at just one of the many public houses in the area facing directly onto the High Road, the George IV. This establishment has a rich history dating back to its origins in 1826 when owned by a James Simpson. Named after the then King, the pub still reflects the architectural and cultural influences of the Georgian era, serving as a vital community hub where people gathered to discuss politics, share news, and enjoy entertainment.
The walk continued down Devonshire Road, heading south towards the River Thames. Ken stopped in front of a derelict pub halfway down the street. He pointed out the contrast between the affluent and successful public houses on the High Road and this failed attempt not 300 yards from the main thoroughfare. This used to be the Duke of York, 107 Devonshire Road.
The site dates back to at least the 1830s. Sources indicate that Fuller, Smith & Turner acquired the pub in 1834, although the establishment itself appears to have existed before then. It served the growing population of Chiswick New Town, a development created to accommodate local workers as the area expanded. The original structure was rebuilt in 1927 by noted architect Nowell Parr. It appeared in editions of the Good Beer Guide during the 1990s. The pub's fortunes declined during the 2000s and 2010s. Fuller’s sold the property in 2017, and after a series of short-lived reopenings and closures, the Duke of York ceased trading in 2018/2019.
After negotiating the underpass at Hogarth Corner, Ken guided the group into the sanctity of the Hogarth Museum gardens where he asked whether anyone recalled the advertising slogan “Drunk for a penny; Dead drunk for twopence; Clean straw for nothing”. This sorry state of affairs was brought about by the overwhelming presence and use of cheap gin. A problem that social commentators of the time, of which William Hogarth was one, made loud noises about. Hogarth’s contribution was to show the contrast between the drinking of Gin and the drinking of Beer in a pair of etching very familiar to any brewery historian.
Hanging in the gallery of the museum are two original prints of Beer Street and Gin Lane. Issued in 1751 by Hogarth in support of what would become the Gin Act. Designed to be viewed alongside each other, they depict the evils of the consumption of gin (then a generic term for grain-based distilled spirits) as a contrast to the merits of drinking beer.
On the simplest level, Hogarth portrays the inhabitants of Beer Street as happy and healthy, nourished by the native English small beer and ale. Those who live in Gin Lane on the other hand are destroyed by their addiction to the foreign spirit of gin. Gin Lane shows shocking scenes of infanticide, starvation, madness, decay, and suicide, while Beer Street depicts industry, health, bonhomie, and thriving commerce.
After the sobering implications of Hogarth’s works, Ken tried to reverse the sombre mood and paused the group at the near-by George & Devonshire pub. Grade II listed and built in the 18th century by an unknown architect. The pub claims that it dates back to 1650 when it was known as the George. By 1826, the pub had been renamed to "The George and Devonshire", after the Duke of Devonshire who owned the nearby Chiswick House. The group could see the Duke’s coat of arms adorning the building. A legend tells that smugglers of rum had a secret passageway from the pub's cellar to the cottages that once lined the Thames below St Nicholas Church. There boats from the Continent would be unloaded and the contraband goods carried up a secret passage, probably still remaining, which led into the cellar. Evidence of this passageway can be seen today in the cellar of the George and Devonshire with two steps leading up to a bricked-up doorway!
Ken led the group down Church Street to view the substantial remains of Sich & Co. Ltd’s Lamb Brewery, clearly emblazoned on the top of the tower. The brewing site was first mentioned in the will of John Hawes in 1763. The brewery was known as Sich & Co by 1819, eventually being acquired by the Isleworth Brewery Ltd in 1920. Interestingly, the Sich site is now surrounded on 3 sides by the group’s next stop, Fullers.
Ken pointed out that some of the cottages along Church Street were adorned with wisteria. Evidently from the same plant as Fullers famous wisteria which almost smoothers their offices.
At the end of Church Street is the parish church of St Nicholas containing the tomb of William Hogarth. A fitting end to a walk dominated by this influential man.
Ken then led the group around the towpath and up to Fuller, Smith & Turner Ltd's Brewery. Early records show the site passing to the Mawson family hands in 1685. John Fuller became a partner in 1829 and in 1845 his son John Bird Fuller was left sole partner. In November 1846 Henry Smith and John Turner joined as partners in the firm. A proudly independent brewer who eventually were acquired by Japanese brewer Asahi in January 2019.
The group then took an informal walk back towards Hammersmith Bridge along the tow path. During the riverside walk, the group enjoyed the sight of elegant Georgian and Victorian houses and historic boatbuilding slipways.
Of course, the opportunity to stop off at one of the beautiful riverside pubs was taken, along with a few excellently kept beers.
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The statue of Hogarth and his dog in Chiswick High Road. Courtesy Mick Connors -
Outside the Duke of York. Courtesy Mick Connors -
The team examining the original Hogarth prints. Courtesy Mick Connors -
Hogarth’s engraving of his dog “Trump”. Courtesy Mick Connors -
The tower of Sich & Co. Courtesy Mick Connors -
Our guide looking a little lost!. Courtesy Mick Connors -
Inside the Fuller’s shop. Courtesy Mick Connors
